Needle Turn

Needle Turn Applique


Diagram A	Diagram B	Diagram C	Diagram D

Using a light table (or a window), trace the design for the applique blocks onto the right side of the background squares, using a marking tool that will wash out or disappear. (Test it first!)

Using a light table (or a window), tape the applique pattern down, then the fabric, face up. Trace both the cutting line and the stitching line onto the right side of the fabric. I like to use a blue water soluble pen, or the white kind of pen that disappears with heat. Test these on your fabric first, to be sure they will disappear! If the fabric is very dark, you may need to cut out the templates on the sewing line and trace around them onto the fabric. Then, you can either draw in the cutting line 1/4" outside the sewing line, or just guess at the distance when you are cutting, since it does not need to be absolutely accurate, as long as you have an accurate sewing line.

Cut the applique pieces out on the cutting line.

Starting with the piece that will go underneath everything else (stems on flowers, etc.), position it on the background square. Pin it in place with applique pins. (Diagram A)

Choose thread that is the same color as the applique piece. Using as small of a knot as possible, begin by bringing the thread through the applique piece right at the seamline, preferably on a long edge somewhere. Using the edge of the needle, turn a small length of the applique piece under at the seamline and hold it down to the background fabric. (Diagram B)

Bring the thread down through the background fabric at the same point where it came up through the applique fabric. Bring the needle back up about 1/8" away, bringing it through the turned-under edge of the applique. Try to only catch a few threads. If you get too big of a "bite" of the applique, your thread will show. Continue around the applique piece this way. (Diagram C)

On tight curves, the closer the applique stitches, the smoother the curve will be.

When you get to a point, sew all the way to the point, then take an extra stitch right at the end of it. Then begin turning the next side of the piece under. For an inner point, clip the seam allowance almost to the sewing line, and take a stitch right in the point. (Diagram D)

If you have a shape with inside curves (opposite to what you find on a heart), you may need to clip the seam allowance occasionally to allow the fabric to stretch around the curve. Sometimes, if the edge is cut on the bias, this will not be necessary.

Note: There are other methods for doing hand applique. One method is to cut the shapes out of freezer paper, iron it to the fabric, then cut 1/4" around the freezer paper. The freezer paper is left on the piece while you turn the edge under and sew around it. The freezer paper is then removed either just before sewing the last 1/2" or so of the applique, or a slit is cut in the backing to remove the freezer paper. I have used both the freezer paper and traditional methods. I like the "feel" of the traditional method better, personally. The fabric is more pliable. It is also more portable, since the freezer paper tends to fall off while in transit.